Rocky Point History



Ajo people are the ones who started the exodus to the Gulf of California. Even before WWII some Ajo people would go down to Rocky Point. Mike Curly was the first general manager of the Ajo mine, way back around 1915. Mike had lots of Hollywood friends and, in the early 1920’s, some of those friends ca

They wanted to know if Mike could find a place to send Mr. Barrymore, where he couldn’t buy alcohol. Mike sent him down to Rocky Point. My uncle George Kapp was Michael Curly’s first chauffeur and so my uncle led the parade down to the beach at Rocky Point. He had many pictures of the event but when he died, twenty years ago or so, I imagine the pictures went to the family and they no longer live in Ajo. But I saw the photos. Looked pretty primitive to have a famous actor along. They were down in Rocky Point for over a week.

After WWII people in Ajo starting going to Cholla Bay, mostly especially in the 1950’s. You could put up any structure you wanted and take an area of the beach for eleven dollars a month. So Ajo people started bringing trailers, they built structures and went mostly for the fishing. Sandy Beach was a nudist beach. There was certainly not much in accommodations in Rocky Point, way back then. Even in the 1960’s I think the only hotel was the Rock Hotel in Old Port. You could buy ice at a place on Constitucion St. that was an ice house but we didn’t use any for drinking water, mostly to keep the beer cold and bring back fish.

How was the fishing? Well, this is what gave Rocky Point it’s start. I first went to Rocky Point in 1940 when I was 9 years old. My dad took me with him on almost all of his fishing and hunting trips. My Dad was head accountant for P.D.(Phelps Dodge) Mine. He came to Ajo on the caboose which he hooked to the ore train in 1927. My Mother came here in 1916 at the age of 6 because her father was Michael Curly’s butcher, and Mike wouldn’t come to Ajo unless the mine sent his butcher along, too. It took two days to get to Tucson and, back then there was no road to Phoenix. People used to put their Model A and Model T cars on the railroad tracks and go north to Gila Bend.

Back to fishing in Rocky Point, the trout and mackerel all averaged 3 to 4 feet in length. One time I remember while we were at Cholla Bay, the sardines came in so thick that if you stood on Pelican Point and looked towards Black Mountain, it was a black wave line about 50 yards across. And as far as the eye could see, a line that while the tide was coming in, it went all the way north to Black Mountain and then when the tide starting going, out it started coming south. They were so packed that when the trout and mackerel made a pass at them the wave would move and cause ripples on the beach. We always camped where JJ’s is now. We didn’t even have a tent, just blankets on the sand until we got Army cots. You could stand on the coral below JJ’s and watch as the tide came in. It looked like a fish hatchery, first came the sea trout. Then when the mackerel came in the trout were crowded out, you could tell the difference by the way they fought, the difference between mackerel and trout was overwhelming. There were so many that we not only caught them in the mouth we hooked them on the backs and tails, every time you cast you had a fish.

We used to take those canvas bags down that they would use to haul ice cream, and we filled them completely full. I have seen waves of sardines come before but never like this. This was about 1946 give or take. We used to come in Model A’s and always hoped we made it to the well that supplied Rocky Point, which was 12 miles north of Rocky Point, so we could get water for the cars. It was hard to haul everything in a Model A, but we managed. We used to just fish from shore and those were some of the happiest days of my life. The other happiest days was when I was hunting for ducks at Mengers Dam on the reservation.

Our favorite stories were fishing at St. Georges Bay, where it used to take us 8 hours to go 4 miles in the sand to get to the bay, and Puerto Libertad and the Seri Indians that we met. Hope you read the next story in the Rocky Point Times.
Gregory B. Blow
Dishnet Dealer Ajo

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The city is known by two names, one in English (Rocky Point) and one in Spanish (Puerto Peñasco or “Rocky Port”). In 1826, retired Lt. Robert William Hale Hardy of the British Royal Fleet was sailing in this area searching for pearls and precious metals. He named the area Rocky Point and it was identified as Rocky Point on marine maps until Lázaro Cárdenas changed it to Puerto Punta Peñasco (Port Rocky Point). To simplify pronunciation, the English name lost the word “Port” and the Spanish name dropped “Punta.”[5]

Prior to the 1920s, the area was just one of the safe harbors for wandering fisherman who worked the upper Gulf of California.[3] During fishing seasons, fishermen from GuaymasBahía Kino, Puerto Libertad and Puerto Lobos began to come here to camp out. The main attraction for these fishermen was a fish called totoaba, which was fished not for its meat but its use in medicine. At this time the area was known as Punta de Piedra o Punta Peñasco. The name comes from a large quantity of solidified lava that hit the Gulf.[1] Even as early as the 19th century, fishermen from Arizona came here. Since there was no source of drinking water, it was not settled permanently.[3]The first residents are considered to be Victor Estrella, Benjamin Bustamante, Melquiades Palacio, Luis Mercado, Juan Mercado and Tecla Bustamante, the last considered to be the first permanent resident.[1]

In the 1920s, John Stone from Ajo, Arizona came here to build a hotel/casino to take advantage of people coming over the border to escape Prohibition. He drilled a water well, and set up flight service from Phoenix and Tucson to bring in tourists to drink, gamble and fish. It is said that Al Capone frequented the place. The business did well until Stone and the locals began to quarrel. Stone burned down the hotel and blew up the water well before he left.[3]

In the 1930s, under President Lázaro Cárdenas, a railroad was built to connect the Baja California to the rest of Mexico, passing by Puerto Peñasco. The town began to grow again, adding a police delegation in 1932, as a dependency of the nearby municipality of Sonoyta, even though the town was part of the municipality of Caborca.[1][3] The railroad line created new population centers and the initial layout of the city and port of Puerto Peñasco was begun in the 1940s. During this same time shrimp fishing was having an impact on the local economy. In 1941, the village had 187 inhabitants who made a living by fishing or working for the Sonora-Baja California railway.[1]

In 1952, Puerto Peñasco separated from the municipality of Caborca and comprised the localities of Sonoyta, Bahía La Choya, 21 de Marzo and Cuahtémoc. Sonoyta was the second largest population center at the time, but it had been a settlement since 1694 when Jesuit missionaries established a mission with the name of San Marcelo de Conoitac.[1] In 1989, the municipality of Plutarco Elías Calleswas split from Puerto Peñasco.[6]

View of a golf course in Puerto Peñasco

Until the 1990s, there had been little tourism here except for campers, fishermen and those (including college students from the University of Arizona) looking to take advantage of Mexico’s legal drinking age of 18.[3][7] The municipality’s pristine beaches with clear waters stretched for a hundred miles north or south with almost no development.[3] The push to make Puerto Peñasco or Rocky Point a major tourism center was initiated in 1993, with the government joining with private investors to build condominiums and other facilities. The goal has been to take advantage of the area’s proximity to the United States and the preference of Arizona residents to spend beach weekends here. Much of the inspiration for the effort came from the success ofCancún, which nearly virgin beach before a government/private venture developed it. Another reason to look to tourism was the declining catches of fishermen here, due to overfishing and pollution. The federal government contributed two billion pesos in infrastructure, especially roadways and anairport and the area was declared a free zone, meaning foreigners could visit the area without a visa. One of the first condo/hotel complexes to be built was Plaza Las Glorias in the early 1990s. More condos and hotels, as well as restaurants, supermarkets and bars began to appear. The last major development has been the Mayan Palace, a condominium, hotel and golf course complex. There was some economic instability in 1994 and 1995, but it did not derail development here for long, coming back by 1999. Between 2002 and 2007 economic growth was at twelve percent. The local real estate market started to go bust in 2007 due to the economic slowdown in the United States. 99% of condominium buyers were from the U.S. and many condo owners were trying to resell. The government is still negotiating with companies such as Marriott and Carnival Cruise Lines to build facilities here.[8]

The airport has started receiving planes from the Los Angeles International Airport and the new highway shortens the drive from California by 100 miles[7] After fishing, tourism is the most important economic activity for the city. Development to date includes seventy restaurants, forty two hotels and motels and fourteen RV facilities.[4]

[edit]The city

Pier in Puerto Peñasco

The oldest part of the town was founded between the edge of the sea and Ballena Hill.[2] The base of the area is volcanic rock, much of it solidified lava flows from when ancient eruptions met the ocean.[4] To promote tourism here, the city was declared to be part of the border “free zone” although it is about 100 km from the U.S. This means that foreigners can drive from the U.S. to Puerto Peñasco without obtaining visas. This makes the area attractive to visitors from Arizona, California and Nevada.[4] In a relatively short time, Puerto Peñasco has become a major tourist center. It contains numerous hotels as well as RV and primitive camping sites.[1] Many consider Puerto Peñasco to be “Arizona’s beach” with Tucson, Phoenix and Yuma closer than the Mexican cities of Mexicali and Hermosillo.[2] Most visitors come for the beaches and to fish. The annual fishing festival occurs in June starting on Navy Day on June 1. These celebrations feature mariachis, folk dance and a festival queen.[1] Another fishing tournament is sponsored by the La Choya Bay Club.[9] Beaches here include El Mirador, La Cholla, Estero Morúa, Las Conchas, Playa de Oro and Playa Bonita. Bonita is noted for its sand which is a light brown color.[10] One attraction of the beaches is the tidal pools. Tides here can raise and lower the sea on the relatively flat land from dozens to hundreds of meters. Low tide reveals a large number of tidal pools in the craters of the rocky coast. In these pools are large numbers of crabs, starfish, and other marine life. There is also an estuary by the name of Morúa east of the community of Las Conchas. Here live thousands of birds, including migratory species.[2]

A large number of beachfront condominiums have been built in this area including Las Conchas, Sandy Beach Resorts, Costa Diamante, Las Palomas Beach and Golf Resort, Sonora Sea, Bella Sirena and Las Palmas.[1][6] The first condos, Las Conchas and Bahías Choya, were built in the far southeast and far northwest respectively. Interest in property here has been unexpectedly strong prompting further developments such as Sandy Beach. This development has plans for a golf course, malls, marinas and more condos.[2]

Crafts for sale here include shell jewelry, iron pieces and carved ironwood.[1]

The airport is a joint government- private enterprise project which was inaugurated in 2008 and has a daily capacity of 2,000 passengers.[11] Puerto Peñasco is a popular destination for spring break, especially for high school and college students from Arizona and California for both its proximity and its 18-year-old drinking age.[12]

The Universidad de Sonora has its Centro de Investigaciones Cientificas y Tecnologicas (Scientific and Technological Research Center) as well as its Centro de Estudios del Desierto (Center for Desert Studies) here which are open to visitors.[1] These institutions started as a joint project with the Laboratory of Atmospheric Sciences of the University of Arizona in 1963 to develop methods of desalinization of sea water. In 1973 and 1974, the Unidad Experimental Peñasco was founded to research the raising of blue shrimp or Penaeus stylirostris. This project has been the leader in the development of shrimp farming techniques in Mexico.[13]

The CET-MAR Aquarium is a marine research center open to the public with displays of marine life such as turtles, octopus and numerous fish species.[6]

Many residents here are American, most restaurants offer menus in English and most business accept dollars.[2] Puerto Peñasco is popular with retirees, especially those from the United States who have trailers and RVs. However, there are retirees here from all over the world.[14] The town has an English language newspaper as well [1]

[edit]The municipality

View to the Pinacate peaks from the sand dunes
Pinacate sand dunes

As municipal seat, the city of Puerto Peñasco has governing jurisdiction over 27 other named communities,[15] which cover a territory of 9,774.45 km2.[1]The municipality has a total population of 57,342 inhabitants, of whom all but 586 live in the city proper.[15] The municipality borders with the municipalities of San Luis Río Colorado, Plutarco Elías Calles, and Caborca. To its north-northwest is Yuma County, Arizona, in the United States and to the south is the Gulf of California.[1]

The land is generally flat with the small mountain range of Sonoyta to the north and east of the area. Most of the territory is the Altar Desert, which extends north and east of the city, and a volcanic zone called Sierra El Pinacate.[1][2] The municipality has 110 km of beaches.[6] Near the city are fields of sand dunes of the Altar Desert, which is one of the driest in the world.[1] ATVs and motocross are permitted on the sand dunes.[16] Most vegetation and animal life is typical for sandy deserts, scrub brush, reptiles (including the Gila monster) and small mammals.[1]

Farming and livestock is nearly non-existent due to the dry conditions. Some industry exists, associated with fishing such as canning and freezing. The commercial sector of the economy support 57% of the population selling food, clothes, pharmaceuticals and other items to both the local population and to tourists. The second most important economic sector is fishing, especially shrimp fishing.[1] Tourism drives most of the commercial sector. The municipality receives about 1,000 visitors a day, with about 85% coming from the U.S. state of Arizona.[6]

View of the Pinacate volcanic area from the Elegante Crater

El Pinacate is a volcanic region and a biosphere reserve that covers 714,556.6 hectares which covers parts of the municipalities of Puerto Peñasco, San Luís Río Colorado and Plutarco Elías Calles. This area has been considered one of the most arid and inhospitable of the Sonoran Desert. In spite of this, the area contains a wide variety of wildlife and evidence of human habitation from ancient times, which has attracted the attention of both tourists and researchers. It contains 553 species of plants with cactuses such as saguaroschollas and ocotillos dominating. With the rainy season, the area explodes with short-lived wildflowers. The area also contains 41 species of mammals, 237 species of birds, forty five of reptiles and four types of amphibians. It was declared a protected biosphere reserve by the Mexican government in 1993. The entrance to the biosphere park is located 50 km from the city of Puerto Peñasco. The nucleus of the biosphere consists of the Sierra el Pinacate, Adair Bay and Sierra del Rosario which cannot be developed under any circumstances. The main attraction for tourists is the volcanic craters. The major ones are named Badillo, Molina (or Trébol), Mc Dougal (the largest) and Caravajales. In addition, there is the Grande Volcano which stands at 3,200 feet tall and has a depth of 950 ft.[17]

San Jorge Island, also known as Bird Island, is really a small group of rocky outcroppings that are just above the surface of the sea about 40 km southeast of the city. The rocks are capped in white like the Alps, not with snow, but with the guano of innumerable sea birds such as seagulls andpelicans, which live here. Below the birds live approximately 3,000 sea lions very close to the water. It is the largest concentration of sea lions in Mexico. It is possible to kayak and/or snorkel here.[2]

Nine native cultures can be found in the municipality. The Guarijíos have a wide variety of crafts such as figures made with natural materials such as palm fronds and clay. They also make hats from a variety of natural fibers. The Mayos, who call themselves the Yoreme, have a rich oral tradition. Other groups include the Opatas, the Papagos, the Pimas, the Seris, the Yaquis the Cucapa and the Kikapu, all of whom are noted for basketmaking using desert plants.[10]

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